Is there a reason that this would have shown up all of a sudden?
SCANMASTER 2.1 CODE
After hooking it back up I started the car and the code #45 showed up again. When I got it home I turned the car off and unhooked the orange wire at the battery for awhile.
That is when black smoke would come out of the exhaust again. When I would finally get up to speed the car would maintain the speed but would sputter every now and then. At that time code #45 showed up on the Scanmaster. At this time my friend that was behind me in his car said that a lot of black smoke came out of my exhaust. When I left the stop sign the car started to surge when giving it gas. It drove fine for about 5 miles until I got to a stop sign. I put this on the car when I got it out of storage last week. That took care of that code and the car idles better. I was fighting a code #34 which I took care of by buying a different stock MAF. That can be taped to your windshield when you want to check your pressure, and then tucked out of the way by your powermaster when you want the "stock" look. I have been recommending the fuel pressure gauge from Casper's You might also want to verify that your fuel pressure is good. I have one of Eric's chips in my third GN and I like it, but I wouldn't introduce it to your car until you get it running good. I have two GN's with the stock chip and they both run fine. I wouldn't replace the chip until you get the problems fixed. I saw it on my OTC 4000 that everybody likes to bash. However, at a WOT run, the voltage dropped off and then picked up. I had a TPS sensor that appeared to work properly with "key on". Also, replace brake fluid if it hasn't been done in the past year or two or you will be in the market for a new powermaster motor. Just a couple thoughts-if you recently bought the car, I would replace the spark plugs, wires (keep them if they are original numbered wires-don't throw them out as they will be valuable for car shows), and air cleaner. One thing for sure is that I am learning more about it through this. That is what I am hoping will happen with this one also. My first GN never had any issues and was fun to drive. There isn't anybody around this area that works on these cars and I can not stand not having this car run correctly.
.jpg "scanmaster-2.1")
I hope that you will still find the time to help me through this situation. I do appreciate the help that all have given. I was trying to get the car running correctly before making those changes but that may not happen due maybe my chip is the problem. I did not get the car on the road to see if the AF reading was flucuating.Īs for the chip - I have been thinking about getting a new one from TurboTweak. While hooking the MAF sensor back up once, it actually made the car die. A couple of times the car idled better but then a couple of times it idled worse. I unplugged the MAF sensor several times to see if this would make a difference. Tapping on the MAF sensor did not change the way the car idled. I tapped on the MAF sensor after it had warmed up - which took a while due to it not wanting to run correctly. The codes did reset but the MAF test didn't really show much. I ran the car today so that I could try resetting the codes and mess with the MAF sensor. CC on the scanmaster is "O2 sensor Cross Counts" which is a reading telling you how fast the stock o2 sensor is cycling between rich and lean.basically if the numbers cycle from 0-255 in ascending order while idling and cruising warm.that is normal.if they stop or show 0.your 02 sensor is dead If it's misfiring, it won't really give you an engine code.Ĥ. If the MAF IS good (which I doubt).you could have a bad coilpack (back of the motor). If not then don't worry about anything except the MAF sensor.ģ.
Look at your scanmaster after you start the car up again and see if you get any mal codes showing. You want to reset the computer so it has no codes showing. Try unplugging the orange wire by the battery for 10 seconds, then replug it. Wow that made the car run so much better.Ģ.
SCANMASTER 2.1 PRO
Trust me I know.I went through 6 of them before I got fed up and went the LS1 sensor route with a translator and then I went MAFless with the translator Pro setup. If you let the car warm up idling, then tap the MAF sensor with a screwdriver, and the idle changes, it's bad. If it skips around while driving, it's bad. Might want to check your AF reading during cruise. The stock style MAF sensor CAN be still bad with no engine light on.
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